Thursday, March 29, 2012

The Intimacy of Cultural Immersion

The other day on the metro, a guy behind me rested his chin on my shoulder.

I know its crowded in there, but he had other places to go. It was his conscious decision to take our unintroduced co-commuter relationship to the next level. And I'm glad he did. 

Friday, March 23, 2012

Sweet Vids

If you like Youtube, then you'll love these! They form somewhat of a cross-section of my time in India here, except its a little heavy on videos from my most recent trip to Darjeeling. Either way. Here are all of the videos I own, in case you're interested:

Elephant Ride to the Amber Fort: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1buhM9_I66g

Child Ritual at Hindu Monastery: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlGs8iEttD0

Indian Wedding Decorations: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzENyioPiFc

Indian Wedding Ceremony: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sgpkejtGvA

Ride on Cable Car (please ignore conversation): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiBAz2ZzXwA

Sunrise on Himalayas: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8On3O1OiOo

A general sunrise video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_q5ChmKhP9c

Super Cool bear fight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76k2KFHxEc4

A weird Indian version of Swan Lake: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVK8J0OzxQc

My host dad's performance of Caesar (apologies for the sideways video):
                                                             http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QV-a0oWDVY

A beautiful child's laughter: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7qvtNNxpeQ




Darjeeling

A few days ago, we went on a weekend trip to Darjeeling. Darjeeling is a city on side of a hill (mountain), on the border of India and Nepal.



Quick Facts-



                ·      Elevation: 6710 ft.
                ·      Population: 132,000
                ·      Grows more tea than anyone I know…combined.
                ·      Kind of cold

Getting there:
       The thing about mountains is that they make transportation difficult. The thing about India is that ALL transportation is wacky to begin with. We rode the sleeper train a station 2-3 hours south of Darjeeling. The sleeper train has its pluses and minuses. Pluses: You travel in the middle of the night and sleep the whole way, so you don’t miss any daylight. Minuses: A justified fear of thievery, moderate solicitation from some less than wholesome individuals, and dozens of people snoring at the same time. In conclusion: I enjoyed the ride immensely.


Following the train came a couple hour-long vertical car ride up the hill (mountain). Its basically a perpetual series of hairpin turns on a one-lane road that serves two-way traffic. No guard rails or fences. The only defense against certain death is utmost trust in the driver. And he did very well.

View from the car window

The City:
            Darjeeling as a city is super cool. One of my favorite places in India thus far. I won’t go into it too much, but in a nut shell:

·      It’s on a hill (mountain). So that’s cool.
·      Very touristy. Very safe, lots of shopping, American Classic Rock, etc.
·      Lots of influence from Buddhism, Nepali/Tibetan culture, etc. That means everybody calls you “brother” and they sell dragons in every store.
·      Quaint buildings from British times.


Things we did:
·      Watched the sunrise over mountains both days. Breathtaking
-       Do adults really get up that early? By the last morning I swear I had literally died.


·      We saw Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain in the world (28,169 ft.). It’s less than a thousand feet shorter than Everest. No big deal. Clouds and fog pose visibility issues, so I didn’t see all that much of the range. Apparently on really clear days, you can see Everest from the hill we were on.


·      Buddhist Temples
-       These are always cool. I’ll see many more before my time in India is up.


·      There’s a cable car that stretches over a valley. It was shut down 8-9 years ago due to an accident that killed several people. It just re-opened about a month ago. So we rode it. I figured I wouldn’t tell any of my loved ones until it was already over.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiBAz2ZzXwA

(When you watch that sweet vid, try to ignore the chatter in the background. It was...inevitable.) 

·      Does anybody like tea? Mark Steingraeber? This is where it comes from.


·      Its cold in Darjeeling. Like 40 degrees during the mornings and nights. The difference between that and 40 degrees at home is that in Darjeeling no heater exists anywhere. That means cold sheets, cold faucet water, cold toothbrushes, cold toilet seat, etc. (I’m mainly focusing on the temperature of the hotel room…). I didn’t really bring warm clothes, because when people tell me its cold in India, I never believe them. This stems from my host-parents consistent concerned insistence that I “put on trousers” when its 65, so that I don’t catch a cold. Well….you win this round. Definitely caught a cold.
·      Many other things



                                          Etc. 

That’s it. If you ever make it to India, I suggested trying it out for a few days. If you have any questions, you can direct them to my email. Thanks.

Adam



Thursday, March 22, 2012

Holi


Holi is the Indian festival of color. It is essentially a tye-dyeing of the body and soul.



If you ask an Indian the religious significance of the festival, they’ll say “….eh?” The reality is that any religious significance is more or less tacked on. It’s essentially a secular holiday that EVERYONE celebrates. The colored dye is sold everywhere, complete with squirt guns for firing colored water. The cool thing about Holi is that nobody is exempt. You will never be reprimanded for dousing someone and their clothes in a color that, I assure you, will never come out. We even got colored the day before Holi, just leaving school. Some of the cheaper powdered has glass in them, some are said to be lead-based, and some will stain your skin for well over a week. You just have to deal.




The funny thing about Holi is that everyone in the city celebrates, and it’s completely evident in people’s hands, necks, and faces for at least the next several days. I saw people with colored hands at least a week after Holi. In some of the poorer citizens, you may even continue to see it in the clothes, if they don’t have an extra pair of clothes to wear the next day. As far as clothing long term: yes, its pretty much stained forever.

We went to a friend’s house early that morning to celebrate, but before we could leave, we had to get colored by our host-parents, and our host-uncle and aunt, who proceeded to color each other, then one of the house-cleaners that happened to walk by. The younger generation gets excited and throws it around and runs and enjoys their vitality. The older ones just solemnly cover each other’s heads in pink powder, and then move on with their day.



When we got to the friend’s house, we confronted a violent mob of little kids, who sadly had us very much out-numbered in soldiers and artillery. When they started spraying us with their fancy $2 Super Soakers (mine was 60 cents, and didn’t work….) and making us look foolish, I was filled with a fiery passion for vengeance. I thought back to what I learned in school (see mom? I learn things in school) about the Battle of Plassey, where the British were able to conquer an Indian force with vastly superior numbers and artillery simply by better management and strategy. The result of the battle was British rule in Calcutta for the next 200 years, and that’s precisely what I intended to accomplish. Except instead of Calcutta, just the little yard we were playing in, and instead of Indians, just small Indian children.  So we proceeded to interchangeably make phalanxes and human pyramids, and when the kids approached (ironically yelling, “Get the Britishers!!”), we would all run at them and scream to scare them away. Sometimes I would carry empty buckets and pretend to dump it on them. Despite our group tactics, my yelling (they can’t understand me, so I didn’t exactly hold back), and my frequent displays of agility, they proceeded to make us look foolish for the rest of the day. 

The girls look so helpless. I should have been there to help. I must have been rolling around or yelling at a kid somewhere. 

And that, is all you need to know about Holi. Come to CSB/SJU next March to try it out. 

Thursday, March 15, 2012

I'm not hungry...so I'll do this now.

I've had quite a few (one) people ask about the food here in India. Here is my response:

As with any type of ethnic food, there's the American version of it, the authentic version of it, and the actual food you eat in natives' homes. I had American Indian food at school at quite a few times, and I was kind of hoping the food here would be similar. Its not. Bummer.


We ate a lot of authentic food during the first couple weeks. We had a high-class Indian-style buffet in our hotels at least twice a day. The food was...downright difficult to eat. The thing about it is that if it's not too spicy, it's too...something. One thing I've learned in India is that "spicy" doesn't always mean "hot." It just means there's a lot of spice. So sometimes when you take a bite, your mouth will be on fire, but you won't know why. It's taking a bite out of stick (stick?) of garlic. Or taking a bite out of....a big pile of Indian spices. Other than that, much of the food is very very sweet, which is even harder to eat when your mouth is on fire from spices. All in all, every bite (no exaggeration) is a surprise. No taste could ever be guessed or assumed, and when you'd take a bite of something, by the time you went back to it you'd have completely forgot what the taste was. Its like being introduced to a huge crowd of people with names you've never heard of. When they introduce themselves, you're not going to know what the heck they just said, and consequently, when you come back to them you don't have a prayer of remembering what the name was. Not to complain of course...I ate it all. It was just very shocking...and difficult. But everything else was shocking and difficult at that time, so we made due.

Try to figure it out. 
Moving onto the food at home. Much simpler, as you would expect. We have pretty much the same food every day. Here's a typical breakfast:

Every morning there is toast (with jam), eggs (sometimes with peppers, as shown above), bananas (don't you dare leave the table without eating your banana! My host mom will...politely remind you to eat your banana), and every once in awhile chicken sausage. I don't recommend chicken sausage. The orange juice is really good though.

Lunch is on our own at school, and I invariably get an egg roll. Egg rolls are a bit different here. They will mix dough and egg and cook it on an open grill on the street. Then they add in some sauteed chicken and peppers, add a few seasonings, ketchup, chile sauce, sometimes lemon. It's very good. Many discussions have occurred within the group about how to successfully bring it back to the states. Within a 1-mile radius of my school, you could probably find 9-10 egg roll places, including the cafeteria inside the school.


Dinner is also pretty much the same every night.

Dinner includes rice, dal (rice topping), fish (lots of bones), roti (the tortilla. You tear it off and use it to grab food), vegetable mush, another vegetable mush (typical vegetables include cauliflower, potatoes, beans, eggplant, cabbage, sometimes spinach), and a chicken and potato mixture. The chicken is extremely bony, which I think could shed some light on why Indians eat with their hands (hand). Its impossible to get the chicken off the bone with a fork, or with your teeth. I often use a fork, but I eat everything else first and then finish by eating the chicken with my hand. 

General notes about food:

-The other day, as a snack with my tea, I had India's Ramen. Its called Maggie. It was....I would love to say better, but I love Ramen so much. It was comprable. Definitely. It's also the only food I've found in India that costs the same here as it does in America. Go figure.


-They have Mountain Dew here. Its not quite the same....but man, it's important to have, in whatever form you can find it in.

-Kolkata is supposed to be world famous for its sweets. There are deserts on the table after dinner every night. Pretty much all of them taste like pure sugar. Like replacing pastry batter with the sugar from Fun Dip. You guys remember Fun Dip?


-One time we cooked for our host family (my roommate cooked for our host family. I...cut vegetables). We made chicken parmesan and spaghetti. We don't have an oven, but somehow we managed. I don't know, ask my roommate. The majority of my time was spent dancing with the family to the Beach Boys. We decided to play music while we cooked, and that was the happy cross-cultural medium we ended up on.

-There's a ton of food on the street here. One day I walked by a stand making some sort of potato thing, with tortillas ("roti") to eat it with. They told me to sit down for some lunch, and brought me a plate in a few minutes. I finished, gave them their plate back, paid them the 24 cents, and went on with my day. You can buy any amount of anything on your way to school. There's even a full blown fish market right by my house. You see a lot of places on the street that sell chicken as well, but they butcher it in front of you. I've never seen it, but there'll be a stand with a basket full of 10-20 live chickens next to it, so I'm making assumptions. Sometimes you see guys transporting the chickens. They grab them somewhere on legs and hold them upside so they can't move, string 10 or so together for each hand, and then bike down the street with them...just hanging there.

-Everybody eats with their hands here. We've all gotten pretty decent at it. It wouldn't be anything special, except that all of the food is in mush form. So when you're done, you just have to find a place to wash your hand. I'll demonstrate the next time I see you.

-There's a lot of Chinese food. So we eat Chinese food sometimes.

-At any given time on the trip I've been down 5-10 pounds from my playing weight (my weight at home). Its so hard to get enough calories when you walk several miles a day, it's always 90+ with 95% humidity, and the food is exclusively vegetables, rice, and fish. It's ok though, I'm comfortable with my robust 63kg. Love your body.

-One time I ate a super pepper, because I thought it was a green bean. I kicked myself afterwards, because I had consciously decided to eat that green bean as its own individual bite. Foolish. Always eat green beans with other food, if not for fear of secret peppers, then simply because green beans go well with most things. So I ate the pepper, and immediately knew what I had done. Tears started streaming down my face, sweat streamed down...my face, and steam blew out of ears. I tried to hide it from my family, by quietly keeping my head down and drinking copious amounts of water. They noticed a minute or so later, about the time when I grabbed my second napkin and wiped my entire face with it. They just laughed. Foolish Americans. Always eating spicy food. The second time it happened, I immediately excused myself, walked to the bathroom, and cried my troubles away, until I was fit to come back to the table.
             -sidenote- In a few weeks we are taking a trip to South India, where people here say, "the food
                             is too hot, even for Indians." Hmm....

-I haven't eaten beef or drank milk in 2.5 months. My brother Thomas would be dead by now.

-Not getting seconds is like a sin here. These host moms are in charge of your well-being, so they will pump you full of food until they are satisfied.

-I could probably keep going, and they would all be as menial and pointless as the ones I've already said. If I remember something interesting I left out, I'll just send it to you in a message.

Thank you for the time. Go eat some french fries, and some beef, then tell me about it.


Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Sonagachi

Yesterday we took an educational stroll through Sonagachi, the largest red-light district in Asia. The whole group came, along with our trip advisor and one of her friends who knew the way. Its about 15 minutes from my house, a 1 minute walk from the metro station I use every day. I didn't expect to enjoy it necessarily, but I thought it would be interesting to see. It turns out.....its pretty awful. Really awful. Go figure.

There are somewhere around 10,000 prostitutes in the district, which has hundreds of multi-story brothels. We went through a few alleys around 6pm, which is before business starts. There were old women and children around, so I assumed that things would clear out before business started. We saw a few buildings and alleys which were pretty clearly brothels, but it wasn't obvious. They don't have the money to make things look nice. Its just a run-down residential area...with a different function at night. By the time we went through our third alley, it was around 7pm, and suddenly business had started. Women lined up down the street, each one looking at me at I passed. Our guide told us that if one of us guys was there by ourselves, every one of them would be badgering us, negotiating a price. He said, "I wouldn't dare go down this alley alone."

Here's the thing about the red light district: in your head, you might have pictures of what its like. You might be able to imagine your prototypical prostitute. But when you're there, looking at these women in the eyes, you realize how incredibly real and human each one of them is. I saw humanity in each of their faces. In many eyes I saw fear, in many others I saw a clear look of self-degradation. None looked happy, or excited. Thousands of women in Sonagachi are held there against their will; I couldn't help wondering which women face that horror as I passed them. Many of the girls were....just that. Girls. To see a 14 or 15 year old girl standing out there on the street....is tough. Especially for the girls in our group. The women don't have the money for lingerie or anything like that; the majority of the girls were just wearing jeans and the smallest t-shirt they own. Its a clear example of how poor the women are; indeed, poverty is the reason they are all here in the first place.

I saw a mother walking down the street in front of us with her son. The boy was about 8 or 9; the mother was wearing a skimpy glittery yellow dress and high heels, holding her son's hand. That's when I started to realize how real it all really is. How human these women are. And how sad it is that, for whatever reason, they've been driven into this. And the reality is, I still can't understand it at all. There are so many alleys, so many women, and a personal story attached to each one. I just saw a handful of women, tried to avoid looking them in the eye, and never said a word to them. The full reality is beyond what I could possibly fathom. Maybe beyond what anyone could fathom.

The next day, I learned that the small group of girls we've been primarily working with at Loreto have been saved from trafficking. I don't know whether this means that their parents were trafficked and the children were saved, or whether they themselves were trafficked for the sex-trade and got saved. Probably both. Either way, these girls must be under 12, and we've been working with them twice a week, getting to know them and getting close to them. They are beautiful girls. If I saw one of them on the street, I think I'd cry. I think they might too.

And the worst part about it is that this exists in every country in the world. 

Cartoon Cultural Comparisons

Here's the thing about India.....everyone loves Tom and Jerry. Personally, I'm a Looney Tunes guy. I don't really understand how one is non-existant here and another can pervade the very fabric of the culture. If you're thinking to yourself, "But....aren't they both pretty much the same thing?" then I say to you, "please. Don't be so foolish."

I guess there's a market here from a cat and a mouse that just doesn't buy in to a talking rabbit and duck. Its too out of the ordinary. Indians are very serious. No time for that lutocracy.

"Earth provides enough to satisfy every man's need, but not every man's greed." -Mahatma Gandhi

 
Tom and Jerry plays all the time on the TV's in the metro station. Generally the programming is a combination of infomercials, 5 minute segments of celebrity gossip shows, and Tom and Jerry. The other day as I was watching, I looked back and realized there was a crowd of about 30 behind me, watching the TV very intently. At one point Jerry, in his struggle to get away, ran around the corner and held out an anvil on the other side. Tom came sprinting around the corner, ran into the anvil, and his head completely flattened....And everybody cracked up. Grown men on their way to work. They love it so much.



Sunday, March 4, 2012

Mother House

The Mother House is a five minute walk from service learning, but I had never been because I wanted to finish my Mother Teresa book first. I finished, and yesterday, I went. A suspenseful lead-in, I know.

There are multiple signs outside the tomb telling you to maintain a strict silence, but at first, the girls and I didn't really feel the need; we weren't following it that strictly. Within a few minutes, by the sheer weight of being there, we were moved to silence, and maintained it for the rest of our stay (and quite awhile afterwards).

The Missionaries of Charity are an incredible group. Despite their decades of existence, incredible publicity, and funding beyond what they could possibly need, they have stayed pure to their work and their mission. They live in simplicity, doing the dirtiest jobs for the lowest of the low, with incredible love. One small act at a time. I think one of the lasting ideas Mother Teresa has given me is, "You cannot do great things in this world. Only small things, with great love."Mother Teresa and her sisters have received worldwide respect and support for members of all nations and religions, simply because you cannot disagree with the work they are doing. They live in absolute poverty, washing feet and taking care of lepers. What could you possibly say against that?


The entire complex, including the outside, is simple and functional. The door to get in is down this alley. Hardly any signage or anything. They don't need any.

This is the tomb. In case you can't read that, it says "Love seeks to serve." Those flowers are traditional in Bengal for adorning Hindu deities, a sign of Mother Teresa's importance to people of all faiths.


As we were sitting there, a sister quietly came in, knelt down, and prayed over the tomb. She was one of the most incredible leaders, by sheer example
We got to see a museum-ish thing, with details of Mother Teresa's life, the work of the Missionaries of Charity, and a bunch of humorous relics from her life. "Scissors used by Mother." "Plate used by Mother." Wowwwww

Next we went up to her room. I wish pictures were allowed there so I could show you what it looks like.

Ok here it is. Thank goodness for the internet.
This is where she slept every night. She would sit at that desk and write letters every day. That bed eventually became the place where she would die. In her last moments, she looked very intently at the crucifix/crown of thorns on the wall. It was supposed to be a very hot room in relation to the other rooms in the house (everything is hot here), but she never used a fan. Not like that was the only personal sacrifice in her life, but it seemed like an interesting anecdote.


A picture of her feet, post-death. They're completely mutilated, because she used them so much. She got her use out of them, and now she doesn't need them. Beautiful. 
As we passed the sisters at the door on our way out, they gave us the biggest smiles. That's when I realized that this stuff really is real. Even the sister I asked a question to when I wasn't supposed to be talking was loving. These women really do everything with extraordinary love. They are an incredible inspiration to me, because they aren't just doing great miraculous things that require a life of servitude and dedication. They are focusing on the ordinary stuff, and doing it with a smile. And that's something we could all do.


Thursday, March 1, 2012

Ok, what was the last thing I told you?

Its been awhile since I've blogged. Sorry.

I'll have to keep this brief. Not one of my better qualities.

A couple weekends ago I we went on a group trip to The Sundarbans. Its a Mangrove Forest Reserve, meaning the trees adapt to having their roots submerged in salt water. If trees aren't exciting enough for you, there's also crocodiles, poisonous snakes, birds, Gangetic dolphins, sharks, mudskippers, lots of monkeys, and Bengal Tigers. Everybody goes to see the tigers, but it turns out they're nocturnal....and don't come to the river's edge to wave to tourist boats as they pass by. Fun fact though: they will hunt and eat humans. Not just for protection of young or territory, but for substance. 30+ people die in the reserve every year from tiger attacks. Sometimes when sailors anchor on the river at night to sleep, tigers will swim up to the boat, get in, find a human in bed, and grab him and take him away. I wasn't scared though, I had fire. Everybody knows Shere Khan is terrified of fire. Another fun fact: there are supposed to be around 70 tigers in the Sundarbans, which is like....the majority of the population worldwide. They expect them to be extinct within 10 years. I always think of extinct species as things like the Dodo or the Woolly Mammoth. Its weird to think it'll be something that I grew up seeing in zoos.

Not keeping it brief at all. Shoot. The wildlife was cool. Sitting in the boat was nice. I didn't see snakes or tigers or dolphins or sharks, but there were lots of mischievous monkeys, and really enormous crocodiles. Oh, and the bathroom in the boat was a little box attached to the back of the boat, with a bucket (for wiping) and a hole that empties directly into the river. It wouldn't be an Adam Kunkel blog post without some sort of commentary on pooping conditions.




I went to Chinatown the other day. Turns out Chinatown isn't very much like Chinatown's in other places. Its probably pretty similar to actual China. There were some really great restaurants, a lot of tanneries, and a lot of filth. We did a lot of snooping, and got a lot of suspicious looks, because tourists don't really come to Chinatown. There are piles of hundreds of goat-skins waiting to be pressed by the giant wheels in the tanneries (they looked like the sliding boulders in Crash Bandicoot). The water is blue from dye, or maybe bacteria. Its almost as if....the Chinese in Kolkata formed an ethnic settlement but didn't bother to build enormous pagodas or decorative dragons. The nerve.

I mean I know there's not a lot of money to go around, but try to meet me halfway. I just want to see this.  Is that too much to ask?

Everybody told me that when I go to India, I HAVE to see an Indian wedding. So I did, and when I got there, snuck my way up to bride and groom, and carefully took pictures while they recited their Sanskrit vows, the thought occurred to me: "......isn't this a wedding? I shouldn't be here." Definitely shouldn't have been there. But I got some neat pictures. To those of you who want an Indian style wedding, start collecting flowers now. If you're looking to replicate the hat....I would suggest a confectioner. Pick me up one while you're there.



For a video: http://youtu.be/_sgpkejtGvA


When we got our housing assignments, Erik and I were told "your family has an active and energetic extended family." I had assumed they were talking about physical fitness, but when I found out they just throw parties a lot, I was alright with that too. A party with extended family in Kolkata means: lots of food and beverages (don't get too excited), strictly intellectual conversation (I'll chime-in.....in a few minutes), and a mandatory display of singing/dancing/acting/anything else from each attendee (are you familiar with juggling?). At the last one, there were 7 American students there. We all went, one by one, performing talents. I juggled melons. We had 2 dancers, 2 singers (one was a Louis Armstrong impression that nobody understood....), a whistler, and Erik played piano throughout. Then my host-brother and host-father did back-to-back solo performances, one a dialogue from Caesar and one a speech by Henry the fifth (if I had done "V", it would have looked like Henry V., and that could be anyone). Antarin yelled and screamed and jumped on furniture and made babies cry and almost made me cry. Ranjit's was much less uncomfortable. I failed to realize that filming videos sideways won't work like taking pictures sideways, but the audio is too good to sacrifice. When I get home, I owe you a neck massage for craning your head sideways.

For a video: http://youtu.be/-QV-a0oWDVY

Storytime with Ranjit


I went to a ballet last night, but it wasn't really a ballet. It was an Indo-French low budget twist on "Swan Lake." I don't even know enough about ballet to make a sarcastic remark, so I'll just post the video. I did see an old white woman with a queen-like dress, tiara, and an enormous diamond necklace. Fairly sure I saw her carrying little glasses on a stick. That's when I knew that even if it wasn't THAT much of a ballet.....it had to have been pretty close.

For a video: http://youtu.be/oVK8J0OzxQc

In a few days, my host brother Antarin leaves forever, to teach Urban Planning in a University in Ethiopia. Its going to be very different here without him. If you could just listen to this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnQ8N1KacJc) and look at this picture of the family napping, I would greatly appreciate it.



Love,
Adam